News Five goes to the summit of Victoria Peak
It took our reporter a month of working out to get in shape for the climb, five days to get up to the top and back down, two days to write the script and eight hours to edit it into a presentable story. The result is fifteen minutes of video, which according to the cameraman, does not even begin to convey the aches, pains, sweat, fear and feeling of triumph that he shared with a couple dozen colleagues on an expedition up Victoria Peak in the last week of March. But here it is anyway.
At less than 4,000 feet above sea level Victoria Peak is no Mount Everest… but this jungle covered mass of ancient granite is the highest point in Belize… and as I was to find out over the next three days, getting to the top represents a challenge to both the body and mind that the average reporter doesn’t face every day.
There are fourteen of us: heads of government departments, tourism officials, conservation types, 2 soldiers of the Belize Defense Force and three members of the media. Leading the expedition is a trio from Trekforce, the U.K. based organization that brings British kids to participate in community and conservation projects here in Belize. Rob Murray, Nick Bougas and Dr. Jim Hinds handle the 46 kilometer march as if it were a stroll through Picadilly Circus — and in so doing are able to reserve their real strength for helping those of us who are not so young, strong or experienced. Of course the assistance of a dozen or so similarly endowed men from Maya Center Village allows the expedition a crucial margin of comfort, safety and confidence.
Day 1
After a hearty breakfast the group departs from the visitor’s center. The first 12 kilometers follow an old logging road, used in the 1960’s to extract mahogany and hardwoods. It’s a good time to break in one’s hiking boats and get used to the feeling of a fully laden back pack… although it becomes clear early on that not all backs — or backpacks — are created equal.
For most of the climbers morale remains high. The terrain rises ever so gently and the only real obstacles are the numerous creeks and river crossings. Casualties are limited to wet feet and bruised egos. In most cases the ever-present vines provide a helping hand… and on occasion some much needed comic relief.
Stewart Krohn
“Day one was literally a walk in the park… although in this case the park measures over a hundred thousand acres. Apart from a few blisters and sore shoulders everyone’s off to a good start.”
At camp that night spirits remain high. Sleeping in a hammock and turning in at eight o’clock are new experiences for most of us. A simple but nourishing dinner goes a long way toward easing any pains.
Rob Murray-John, Director, Trekforce
“Valerie Woods, Director of the Belize Tourism Board, contacted us and said that they wanted to run an expedition up Victoria Peak – a high level profile trek – where they could raise the awareness of anti-litter campaign and make people more responsible for their own litter here. And it was a way of increasing the awareness by having such a high profile trek. And they approached Trekforce to ask if we could run a safe logistics and management of a trek of this kind. Our challenge was to provide those safe logistics and get people up to the top and back again safely, well fed and with great communications as well.”
Valerie Woods, Director, Belize Tourism Board
“I’m sure when I get to the top, Stewart, it will be worth it. 12 kilometers in one day is quite a challenge, particularly in this terrain. But we made it and we’re all in one piece and we’re sort of tending to our sores, our sore muscles right now.”
Day 2
The long night of fitful sleep doesn’t do much to dispel any soreness but the anticipation of the unknown has everyone up at first light. One man for whom the day would hold few surprises is Antolino Pop. At 60 years old he may be the fittest man in camp… and could probably make the trek blindfolded.
Q: “Mr. Pop how many times have you been up Victoria Peak?”
Antolino Pop, Guide
“I don’t know exactly but it is more than 40 times already.”
Q: “Do you enjoy this kind of thing – leading tourists up the mountain?”
Antolino Pop
“I enjoy it sir; I like it when I’m in the jungle. You could see animals, birds, whatsoever on the trail.”
Mr. Pop’s words would soon prove prophetic, but as our party heads out on its second morning the enthusiasm continues unabated.
We leave the remnants of the old logging road and the trail becomes narrower. It also grows steeper as to reach the base of the mountain we have to first cross the numerous ridges that descend from the lesser peaks of the Cockscomb Range. This territory, because of its remoteness, has never been logged and while the going gets rougher the scenery grows more breathtaking.
Nick Bougas, Expedition Leader, Trekforce
“We do everything we can to make it as safe as possible. With emergency equipment, radio, we have VHF and HF communications. We have a doctor and a huge medical pack with us. We have other equipment like mini flares, to navigational aids like GPS and compasses and the rest of it. Myself and Robert have been working in this environment for like ten years now and so I think we have as much safety built into a trek like this and generally as one can possibly have. I don’t think we can make it any safer.”
Q: “Is it still fun?”
Nick Bougas
I love it; I absolutely love it. I am thirty years old and I have a degree in computer information systems and my peers and friends are all chasing the dollar and having wives and kids and I’m still out here in the jungle. And I guess that means I absolutely love it and I wouldn’t change it for anything. I think that I have the best job that anybody could possibly have.”
As the climb wears on yesterday’s sore muscles become today’s acute pains. The pace becomes noticeably slower, the banter less frequent and less jovial.
Stewart Krohn
“Day two is not quite as easy as Day one. It’s only seven kilometers but it’s all uphill… and we’re still not there yet.”
But fatigue would soon be the least of our problems. As we work our way up a narrow ridge Lance Corporal Lambey spots a snake just off the trail. A quick consultation fixes its identity as a jumping Tommy Goff, a type of fer de lance, that is one of the deadliest snakes in Belize. As a rule even poisonous snakes are left alone in protected areas like Cockscomb, but the consensus among expedition leaders, park managers and forestry officials is that with so large a group on the trail it would be foolish to run the risk of a possibly fatal accident either now or on the way back. The honor of administering the coup de grace falls to Nick.
For many of us the element of reptilian fear is just one more burden added to the steepness of the terrain and the heat of the day. It soon becomes apparent that not everyone in the group will conquer Victoria Peak… and many of us wonder if we have the stuff to even reach the camp at kilometer 19.
Stewart Krohn
“We’re in the middle of Heartbreak Ridge and now you know why it’s named Heartbreak Ridge. My heart is not the only thing broken right now, but I hope I can make it to the top.”
Frequent rests and drinking plenty of water allow everyone to eventually make it over Heartbreak Ridge and into camp. But the up and down has taken its toll. Crumpled knees and burst blisters are the biggest problems… along with the certain knowledge that the worst is yet to come.
Day 3
We begin the day of our summit assault without two of our members whose injuries have not yet sufficiently healed. But we are joined by a late arrival in the person of British High Commissioner Tim David. I am grateful for his company and the chance to prove that those of us over 40 are no less foolish than those under 30. Right out of camp the jungle inclines toward the vertical and heavy breathing now competes with the sounds of exotic birds and insects. Each of us reaches deep for the strength to continue and some of us find it in the strangest places.
Q: “Maria, how are you doing so far?”
Maria Vega, Caye Caulker, B.T.I.A.
“Perfectly wonderful.”
Q: “What’s your secret?”
Maria Vega
“A selection of lipstick, anyone you want. (puts one on) Did I get that right? (laughs)
For others, this reporter included, the key to success lies in false bravado.
Stewart Krohn
“It’s our last day. We’re about one kilometer in. The going is really rough, but… guys we’re gonna make it?”
Climbers
“Yeah!!!”
By mid morning we reach the base of the mountain and begin the long assent up a dry creekbed. Fatigue has taken its toll, however, and the once tight formation of hikers dissolves into a half dozen knots of climbers. We are finally out of the forest and a look down from mid mountain offers the first real vistas of the journey. For the most challenging part of the ascent I put away my camera… partly because it interferes with the hand-over-hand progress up the rockface and partly out of fear that Sony’s warrantee does not extend to professional insanity. I do manage to haul it out during breaks, however, and capture at least a hint of the beauty that this special place has to offer. As we near the summit one final challenge remains: an almost sheer rockface that requires some extra insurance.
Nick Bougas
“Basically it’s a rock climbing harness – we have two of them – and what I want to do is have a production line of one person going up while the other person is getting into the second harness. The reason being we would have safety and I will be at the top laying everyone from the top. Unfortunately I have to get up without the harness… (ha, ha, ha) … which is fine; it is no big deal. Just for safety to make sure that no one falls off because if they do fall off it is really quite a drop down the other side.”
The rock climb itself is fairly easy especially with the ropes and harness. What fools us, however, is what comes next. We are led to believe we are at the peak… but it turns out that the real summit is another lonely 10 minutes up. Thinking that the top is just around the corner I leave the camcorder running… but all it records is a mass of tangled foliage and the last gasps of some desperately overworked lungs…
But eventually desperation triumphs over gravity.
Most of us are too tired for rejoicing, but as members of the group struggle to the top there is no mistaking the relief.
While some of us get patriotic, others go about the jobs we are hired to do. Love FM’s Felix Mai immediately files the first live radio broadcast from the top of Belize… and in doing so produces a perfect advertisement for the phone company.
Felix Mai
“Everything is okay; everyone is fine. We would like to say hello to everyone out there. We made it and we feel good about it, right Stewart.”
And for this reporter, with 23 kilometers behind me and 23 more to go, eloquent words are definitely in short supply.
Stewart Krohn
“Here we are at the highest point in Belize. Was the trip fun? I can’t say that it was. Would I do it again? Doubtful. Am I happy to be here? You bet! Stewart Krohn for News Five.”
Members of the expedition, organized by the B.T.B. and led by Trekforce, were Valerie Woods, Leanne McCarthy, Maria Vega, Felix Mai, Derric Chan, Angel Chun, Humberto Paredes, Evaristo Avella, Robert Stevens, Stephen Swasey, Sergeant Geronimo Castillo and Lance Corporal Richard Lambey. Special thanks go out to Antolino Pop and the men of Maya Center Village. Permits to climb Victoria Peak, only in the company of trained guides, may be obtained from the Belize Audubon Society.
